Luaus define Hawaiian feasts for most visitors, and they've become fairly standard. The main dish is always Kalua Pork from a whole pig cooked in an Imu pit. Some luaus let you in early to watch the pig go into the pit. Other standard dishes include barbecued chicken, teriyaki beef, several forms of rice, potatoes, salads etc.

The special Hawaiian dishes include lomi lomi salmon, assorted fresh grilled or raw pickled fish, ahi poke, haupia and a batch of other dishes better eaten than described. A trip through the food line to select tiny samples of everything, a quick taste test and a return to load up on your personal winners is recommended.

Poi, the pounded residue of Taro root, is a tourist vs. traveler test. To be brutally honest even the best slightly purple fresh poi tastes a lot like library paste. Most Haoles find poi tastes better after two or three drinks.

Drinks are, of course, often part of the package. Some luaus include two or three Mai Tais, Blue Hawaiians and other exotic and/or lethal liquor and fruit juice concoctions. Some do not, and offer open bars. All luaus offer all the non-alcoholic beverages. Some luaus seat everyone on the ground in ancient Hawaiian style; others seat some or all of the guests at tables, The Polynesian Cultural Center uses a theater.

Prices range from about $50 to about $90 for adults. Children under five are free, and those under 12 usually pay about half adult rates.

Broadly speaking luaus divide into three types. First, there's the traditional hotel luau usually on the hotel grounds. The best example of this in Hawaii is doubtless the Kona Village production on the Big Island. These split guests between hotel residents and outsiders, eliminate transportation time or expense, and offer hotel residents a chance to watch preparations.

The next type of luau is produced by a specialty firm. The advantage to this is pick up and delivery is usually part of the package and at least some of these can include a Hukilau section that traditionally involved hauling in nets.

Both of these luaus types offer varying degrees of Polynesian or Hawaiian entertainment. The former usually starts with old Hawaiian hulas, builds tempo through Fiji and Tonga dances, adds modern Hawaiian hulas, kicks in the afterburner for downright suggestive Tahitian hula where 'drums and buns' fight it out. In some cases Maori war dances drop into the package. In almost all cases the finale involves knife or fire dances from Samoa. Tip: The Hawaiian Luau's seems rather more subtle and appeals to traditionalists more interested in authenticity than hip action.

The last luau type isn't usually considered by tourists. It's the church or organizational luau put on by Hawaiians for Hawaiians and usually on the weekend. Church ladies bring their specialties and delight in filling guest plates. The men buy or hunt up pigs and other main courses. Food quantity is incredible, and ethnicity and quality varies wildly with the organizations or church's ethnic makeup.. Hulas can be ancient, modern or downright suggestive. Beer may come in galvanized buckets where drinking is part of the package. These are the least expensive, most authentic, most variable in quality and available most of the time on most islands if you're willing to check the local newspaper and gamble $10 or $15. Do ask about alcohol. Some church functions are, at least in theory, dry.

As a rule it's wise to book a luau several days ahead with an eye on the schedule and the weather. Luaus should be outdoors.